Bears Ears

Bears Ears National Monument was established in 2016 to protect natural and cultural resources in southeastern Utah and spans the area between Canyonlands National Park in the north and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area to the southwest. Jointly managed by the Bureau of Land Management, US Forest Service, and the Five Tribes of the Bears Ears Commission, Bears Ears is a giant among national monuments. It’s 1.3 million acres puts it just ahead of Grand Canyon National Park in size and has been the basis of controversy including multiple size adjustments over its short life as a monument.

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One of the rocky butte formations in Valley of the Gods

Our Visit. We visited Bears Ears National Monument in April as a couple of excursions off the back highways of Utah while traveling between Colorado and Arizona.

Our Weather. 40s and sunny the first day, 70s and sunny a few days later

Overall Impression. Like some other national monuments managed by the BLM or US Forest Service, Bears Ears National Monument doesn’t cater to tourists. It feels much more like wilderness than a developed park because that’s what it is. Despite this, many of its best known sites are just off the main roads that border and cross through the park including the southern section between Bluff and Mexican Hat, Utah that we visited.

Looking north into Valley of the Gods from a couple miles into the drive off US 163

Visiting. Even if you’re not planning to spend days camping and hiking in the park’s many back areas, you can visit a couple of the monument’s sites in just an hour or two to get a feel for the rugged landscape and natural beauty of the area. We were traveling between Cortez, Colorado and Monument Valley, Arizona which took us along US 163 where we encountered signs telling us we had entered Bears Ears just west of Bluff, UT. This route takes you right by two of the more visited sections of the park, the Valley of the Gods and the Goosenecks. Each will take about an hour off the main road to visit.

Valley of the Gods isn’t quite as spectacular as Monument Valley just a little further south, but it’s far less crowded, and the red rocks, buttes and spires are beautiful in their own right. As far as we could tell, there’s not much in the way of trails in this area, but a dirt road meanders its way around some of the valley’s most prominent features. This road connects with Utah Highway 261 to make a 17-mile loop. While its passable by a 2-wheel-drive passenger vehicle, it’s not for the faint-of-heart as it drops and climbs steeply in places, is very dusty, and even crosses a shallow stream at least once. There are pullouts all along the route that allow you to get out and admire the different views, just be courteous of those who’ve claimed these pull-outs as camp sites.

A view of two of the horseshoe bends in Bears Ears from Goosenecks State Park

Another great way to visit is to take the short drive to Goosenecks State Park which is just north of Mexican Hat, Utah. The state park is tiny (and has it’s own modest entrance fee), but it’s surrounded by Bear’s Ears National Monument. The park overlooks not one but three back-to-back horseshoe bends in the muddy San Juan River surrounded by rocky cliffs. It’s not as spectacular as THE Horseshoe Bend a couple hours away, but it’s still a site well worth seeing.

Those traveling to Natural Bridges National Monument or the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park will also experience Bears Ears as part of their drive into these parks, Utah 95 and Utah 211, respectively. For hiking, most of the monument’s few BLM trails start from dirt roads primarily off of Utah 261 in the southern section of the park while most of the US Forest Service trails can be reached by dirt roads out of Monticello, UT.

Suggestions. Unless you’re a serious hiker or camper and just really want to spend a lot of time in Bears Ears, treat it like a nice excursion between destinations or just enjoy it through the windows as you drive through. If you do venture down a dirt road, make sure you’ve read ahead to ensure your vehicle is appropriate for the road, and always take extra water in case you get stuck–you may not see anyone else for a while if you need help, and cell service is spotty.

Nearby Towns Monticello, Blanding, Bluff, Mexican Hat (UT)

Other Nearby Attractions Canyonlands National Park, Arches National Park, Natural Bridges National Monument, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

Official Website Bears Ears National Monument

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